Middelvlei Pinotage

South African Pinotage has a reputation for being a grape variety that is difficult to love. Middelvlei Pinotage (1999) from Stellenbosch demonstrates why it is worth trying. The label says: "It rewards with complex flavours of raspberries, mulberries and elegant oak. Fruity and delicately sweet on the middle palate, it has a long dry finish." It also has that characteristic aftertaste which reminds me of blue cheeses, such as Italian Dolcelatte. This, I hasten to add, is much less displeasing than it sounds. It is a big wine to go with big food - venison with prunes is suggested.